The average RV is configured for a family on vacation. Sleeping accommodations are maximized — storage, seating and working areas, not so much. Vacationers typically spend much more time out of the unit. Full-timers have different needs.

In my previous article, I took a look at several modifications that full-timers can make to live more comfortably in their RVs. The following is a look at some additional tips and tricks for full-timers that we have picked up on the road.

Useful kitchen tools

The bread line

Camping stores seldom carry bread. There isn't the turnover necessary to keep it fresh. If they do stock bread, it's typically bland white bread. When there is a store nearby, we will get a loaf from a grocery store, but our RV freezer is too small to freeze many extra loaves.

But ingredients are easy to store and have a long shelf life. When we are in a remote spot, we just take out our bread machine and bake a loaf. It can be white, whole wheat, pumpernickel or other interesting styles. A fresh loaf of bread is also a great way to introduce yourselves to new neighbors. And don't forget most bread machines also make fresh preserves with little effort.

Smelling the coffee

We like good coffee, so we use a coffee press (costs about $20). Not only does it make great coffee, but it also suits the RV lifestyle. They just need hot water and ground coffee. We don't need electric power as a drip machine or Keurig does.

For hot water, we use an electric kettle when hooked up to electric power, or use a regular kettle on the gas stove. We buy coffee as beans and grind to need. The press works better with coarse ground coffee, which is hard to find. Storing as beans is also better for the coffee.

Slowly we cook

I also use a small slow cooker. You can start your dinner, spend the day at the pool and come back to a perfectly done one pot meal. Many dollar stores sell slow cooker liner bags, which makes cleanup a snap.

I don't use a food processor. I usually only cook for two, and the cleanup just doesn't justify the occasional use. A hand shredder and miracle slicer do for those kind of food prep jobs.

Insulating/heating

Snowbirds try to live in warmer climes. That's why they’re snowbirds. But in that shoulder season between trips, it can get quite cool. Here are some quick and easy ways to insulate your cabin.

The first, and easiest thing to do is to make sure your dashboard vents are closed. Some RVs have a curtain to close off the driver's area. If not, a sheet of the plastic used to enclose buildings under construction can be used to cut down on drafts from the front. You can install one large sheet over the opening or run it around the chairs so you can use them for storage, etc. Weight the bottom of the sheet and duct tape the edges to seal off air.

Hot air rises. RV stores sell vent covers to seal overhead vents. Instead, just buy a small sheet of half-inch foam insulation and cut baffles for each vent. If your windows are really cold to the touch, you can apply an inner seal with a window insulation kit sold at many dollar stores. This can also be an alternate way to seal vents.

If you get airflow from under the slide-out, get a foam pool noodle and trim it to fit under the slide. Foam pipe insulators will also work. Just remember to pull it out before pulling the slide in.

When it comes to heating, typical RV furnaces heat the whole unit. But you only need to heat the area you are occupying. For the bedroom, an electric blanket is the best for overnight sleeping. It heats the area you want, and draws much less current than a space heater. However, space heaters are useful to heat just the main cabin while watching TV or reading.

Buy an up-to-date ceramic heater. They use less power, are adjustable and have adequate safety protection.

Electrical issues

Whether 30 amp or 50, we all have had to stop and unplug something, then reset a breaker. Upping your units' electrical capacity is neither easy nor cheap. We soon learn what can and cannot co-exist on our electric circuits and live with it.

In my unit, the issue was placement of outlets. Seniors like me should not have to be contortionists to find outlets under benches and tables or under cabinets. Some areas of the unit have no outlets.

One solution is a good quality extension cord to take power to the powerless zone. Run it carefully from one end to the other so it does not get pulled or cut.

You can also make your own extension. Use appropriate household current wire. Run the wire through bulkheads or along corners. Plastic conduit can be used to protect wire, and it can be cut to length and has plastic elbow joints that are easy to use. Just be sure to run the wire through the conduit before attaching the plug and outlet.

You can move some outlets to more suitable areas or add ones where needed. I found that surface-mounted outlets work fine. Another method is a power bar to service a number of those low-power items like TV sets, speakers, cable boxes etc.

Every RV has a button that turns off all power to the cabin (for storage). This is good to know if you are working on your electric system.

Note: These fixes do not add power capacity to your system, it just makes it more accessible.

Masts

You don't have to be a sailor to need a mast. They can hold a flag, a bird feeder, a WiFi amplifier or a larger TV antenna. But storing a 10-foot mast is cumbersome.

Enter plastic electrical conduit. It comes in 10-foot tubes or longer, and one end is fluted to connect to another. Cut one in half to have two manageable 5-foot lengths.

To set up your device, connect the two pieces. Drive a 10-inch spike halfway into the ground beneath your side mirror. Fit the mast onto the spike, and couple it to your side mirror arm with a cable tie. Now you have a stable mast. Drill small holes in the top and use cable ties or clamps to attach your flag or other things.

Sewage

RV stores sell a slinky-like device to hold your sewer hose on a slope for easy drainage. They cost about $20. Hardware stores sell plastic storm gutters for $5. Take a 10-foot gutter and cut it 60/40 in two. Now you have an adjustable channel.

To slope properly, take two 1-foot pieces of 1x2 strapping, fasten them in an X so that it props up the hose just below the sewage tank valve.

WiFi

WiFi access is often an issue at camps. Some have none, some have in it the lounge only, and some have it to the site.

I use a WiFi amplifier that costs $30 at a discount store. It's a little antenna with a 20-foot USB connector. Mount it on a mast and point it at the signal to improve reception. There are many free WiFi signals out there. These locations seldom turn off their systems when they close. Park nearby and access the signal.

Propane

Motorhomes have a large internal propane tank. It is cumbersome to feed a barbecue off this supply. More importantly, when the tank is empty, you have to pack up your whole unit to take it to a filling station.

There is an easier way. Buy an extended-stay kit. This is a valve and hose that allows you to connect a BBQ tank to your RV. Use the main tank as a backup, and run on a barbecue canister. When it runs out, you just have to cart the canister to the filling station. It's also easier to connect to the barbecue. I have two barbecue tanks, so now I never run out.

Window shades

Many RVs have vertical fold blinds. They are ordinary to look at and can be tricky to use. Hardware stores sell sheets of patterned plastic. They can be cut to size and applied with soapy water and a squeegee.

They have a number of patterns, and the overall effect is somewhat like stained glass. They are opaque to light, but offer privacy. This is an inexpensive but useful modification.