Leaving Fort Nelson after the first leg of our journey, the Alaska Highway (known as the Alcan) veers west and twists and turns through the northern Canadian Rockies for the next 200 miles toward Steamboat. The landscape is densely forested with many magnificent vistas, where mighty rivers run rapid and disappear into the wilderness.

Small, beautiful lakes are in abundance, and wildlife can be found around almost any curve. Along this wild stretch of road we began to see deer, elk, bear and bison in abundance grazing on the shoulder or standing in the middle of the highway.

Diane and I followed "The Milepost," a mile-by-mile guide that provides warnings of conditions ahead, such as "loose gravel patches are common" or "steep winding descent next 2 miles northbound with 6 to 10 percent grades." When you are wheeling along alone, it's nice to know you have a guide telling you what to expect up ahead.

Crossing Steamboat Creek Bridge, the highway began to improve; we also began our snake-like climb up Steamboat Mountain — at times with a 10 percent grade. Once beyond the mountain summit, we were driving on gravel again with our speed reduced.

Posted signs indicate 60 km/h (37 mph) or less, yet the Canadian truckers barrel by with no concern for RVs on the road. It seemed they deliberately try to throw stones by swinging their trailers to the center line.

Watch for stone sheep and caribou along this stretch of highway; they were quite common.

The highway between Steamboat and Toad River was quite winding as it follows the Tetsa and McDonald Rivers. I enjoy fishing, and the waterway was just too inviting. Where Mill Creek enters the Tetsa, I fished for whitefish and caught a few for a future dinner. Whitefish and graylings are plentiful in the Tetsa.

As we approached Summit Lake, more and more signs stated, "You are in Bear Country, Do Not Feed the Bears." We did not need signs to tell us. We had observed bears for the past 40 miles. The huge, magnificent black creatures would loiter along the edge of the forest or lazily cross the road before us.

Just beyond Toad River, the Alcan turns north, and we entered the Muncho Lake wilderness, a provisional park with exceptional views of the lake valley. Muncho Lake is known for its beautiful deep green and blue waters, colors attributed to the copper oxide that leaches into the lake. The Alcan Highway narrows considerable as it winds along the lake shore northbound, and there were no guard rails.

A scenic viewpoint is located at milepost 445 near Muncho Lake.

This day we made our way to Liard River Recreational Area, found a comfortable site to rest for the night and discovered a new experience. Unknowingly, we had stopped at one of Canada's prominent hot springs, the Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park.

It was a short walk from our coach to the hot springs with signs stating, "CAUTION: Be aware of Bears." A trail crosses a wetland supporting more than 250 boreal forest plants, including wild orchids — getting to the pools is an adventure in itself.

Beavers and wild moose feed in the wetlands.

The water is crystal clear at a constant temperature of 108 degrees. Swimming closer to the spring itself, the temperature is closer to 123 degrees. After a day on the Alcan, unwinding in this pool of mineral water soothes the muscles and relaxes the mind.

Its wilderness location in a lush boreal setting adds to its ruggedness, charm and romance. It is a travelers' place to rest weary bones and tired eyes after a long day on the road. Access to the pool was free with our fee for a campsite. It was so refreshing, and we took full advantage of the natural setting and relaxing mineral waters of the Liard River.

That night we slept under a million stars with the sound of the owls and the soothing flow of the river.