Diane and I first visited Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota with our young son on a cross-country trip in the summer of 1967. Much has changed and much has remained the same. Since that trip, we have returned several times since retiring. It’s such a wild, wonderful countryside that keeps drawing us back.
We had been staying at Fort Robinson in Nebraska and decided to leave as the weather forecast for Game Lodge in Custer was for 1-3 inches of snow in the campground and 3-5 in the high country. We could envision the beauty of the land with a covering of white snow. We wanted to be there, and we needed to be there!
We arrived at the Game Lodge Campgrounds in the Black Hills on a Thursday afternoon. It was a beautiful warm spring day.
The sun was shining, the sky was blue and the trees were showing a bit of green. It’s amazing how quickly conditions change, because in the morning we awoke to a winter wonderland. It snowed all night and morning, leaving at least 4 inches of snow covering my vehicle. The roads were well-plowed, allowing us to complete our in-town shopping. By mid-afternoon we left to cruise the “Wildlife Loop Road,” an 18-mile drive through some of America's most beautiful wilderness.
Almost immediately, we observed a herd of pronghorns resting in the afternoon snow. They are such beautiful animals. Our biggest thrill arrived a bit further! A bison herd suddenly appeared everywhere especially on the road.
As we topped a hill two huge bulls were standing in the middle of the road. Just beyond them were twenty or more, and many cows with calves. We noticed a pair of newborns, bow-legged and wobbly with an umbilical cord hanging from their little bellies. Some calves were feeding from their mothers while others were scurrying about in the snow just like a bunch of school-aged kids.
Gradually, the herd moved toward us, with the bulls leading the way approaching the front of our truck while the cows surrounded us. We had no idea what they intended. We knew they were protecting all the new life; we just sat quietly. Soon, the situation passed and we moved on.
In another situation a bull actually challenged our being on the road. He aggressively and assertively trotted quickly towards our vehicle. Once I reversed and moved further away from the youngsters he backed off and continued to stand in the middle of the road. I was just too close. Bison are very protective of their own.
In the opposite lane, a small Cooper vehicle tried to sneak slowly pass the herd, and several bulls put an immediate stop to that. Within minutes we could no longer see the vehicle, they were surrounded by 10 to 12 bison. We were realizing one neat experience after another. I would say we observed several hundred bison this day; at times up close and very personal.
It seems each species has its own territorial range. The pronghorn and bison are open field animals, resting and grazing on the great western meadows of grass. Pronghorn are running animals, reaching incredible speeds across the land. Bison, well, they mostly walk at a medium pace, not too much in a hurry.
As we crossed French Creek, at least a dozen wild burros were standing on the nearby creek bank. We stopped to take a few pictures, and before we knew it, they were rubbing their noses on our windows.
Apparently, both the bison and the burros seem to enjoy licking the dirt (or salt) off the side of our pickup? I rolled down the window and they stuck their heads inside seeking a tasty tidbit. I found they like their ears scratched and their neck rubbed. They are such friendly little guys.
Song birds were migrating throughout the park, including hundreds of robins and Meadow Larks were crossing the roadway. I was afraid I would hit one. They were seeking food along the edges of the road; the meadows were too deep in snow.
Have you ever listened to the call of the meadowlark? It is so delightful and pleasing to the senses. I could sit and listen to them all day long. Today, they were everywhere with their captivating melody of the western plains.
As we began our climb to higher elevations, with more trees and bushes along the road we came across a gaggle of wild turkeys, four hens and a tom. We must have excited them — the tom let out a call that could be heard for a mile. The ladies all ran for cover before we could get a picture.
This is also deer country, both mule and whitetail roam these hills. Be very careful topping hills and rounding curves because two or three of these beauties could be standing in the middle of the road. We saw many deer on our return trip to base camp.
Of course, the trip would not be complete without seeing the prairie dogs. There are several prairie dog towns on the southwestern edge of the park.
Many had burrowed through the snow and were out and about chasing one another. Always on guard for predators, a few can be seen standing guard. A quick movement and a loud shrill is heard and the entire pack scurry for the safety of their homes. Kids of all ages love to watch these little guys. As my daughter would say, “They are so cute.”
Once again, we made it home safely in time for an evening cocktail before dinner. The sun is out and the snow has begun to melt. We immensely enjoyed our winter experience in this high wild country of South Dakota.