Coconut oil is once again surging in popularity. From home uses to commercial use, the nutty-flavored oil is making a culinary comeback because of its nutritional composition.

Even though coconut oil is nearly 90 percent saturated fat, its medium-chain fatty acids have a more neutral effect on heart health than other saturated fats, according to registered dietitian Wendy Bazilian, author of "The SuperFoods Rx Diet."

For years, coconut oil was the go-to choice in many North American homes and commercial kitchens — used by the home baker for superior-tasting, flaky pie crusts and by the restaurant chef for deep-frying foods.

That lasted until about 1980 when several national agricultural associations — who wanted to benefit U.S. farmers growing corn, soy and other crops — began a campaign against coconut oil. They persuaded the country that the polyunsaturated fats from vegetable oils, such as soybean or corn oil, were a better choice for frying. That resulted in the near-demise of coconut oil.

However, coconut oil — made from the fruit of the coconut palm tree — seems to have finally overcome its bad reputation and once again captivated culinary connoisseurs.

Grocery stores have seen a surge in demand for coconut oil. Just seven years ago, Whole Foods in Louisville, Ky., only had a small shelf of coconut oil products. Today, the store carries 8-10 brands that fill three full shelves.

According to a recent New York Times article, Thomas Brenna, a professor of nutritional sciences at Cornell University, who has extensively reviewed the literature on coconut oil, says a considerable part of its stigma can be traced to faulty research.

"Most of the studies involving coconut oil were done with partially-hydrogenated coconut oil, which researchers used because they needed to raise the cholesterol levels of their rabbits in order to collect certain data," Brenna said. "Virgin coconut oil, which has not been chemically treated, is a different thing in terms of a health risk perspective. And maybe it isn't so bad for you after all."

Heat can destroy the beneficial fats in many oils, but because coconut oil is a saturated fat, it has a high smoke point of 446 degrees Fahrenheit. Some other oils begin to smoke at a much lower heat; for example, olive oil's smoke point is 380 degrees, while flaxseed begins to smoke at 225 degrees.

Beyond its smoke threshold, coconut oil can be used as a salad dressing, substitute for butter, coffee creamer and in smoothies.

One Texas couple has been using coconut oil in their restaurants for more than four decades. In 1972, Roy and Shelda Upshaw started Taco Casa, a fast-service Mexican food restaurant in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. With 60 stores now, each of their Texas and Oklahoma franchises use coconut oil to fry flour and corn tortillas.

"We were always sold on coconut ... even during the 1980s when vegetable oil was popular," Shelda said. Taco Casa tried other oils, but never found one that offered the flavor, texture and health benefits of coconut oil.

"It's one of the few [oils] that has the health benefits and the flavor," Shelda said. "Some oils that are good for you, don't taste good. It's a little more expensive than the other oils, but we still choose to use it."

The cost may be what keeps other restaurants from switching to coconut oil.

There's a lot of pressure for restaurants that tout sustainability like Moe's Southwest Grill and Chipotle to switch from oils made with GMOs — such as soy, canola and cottonseed — to coconut oil. It's especially popular for gluten-free and vegan cooking, as well.

Some health benefits of coconut oil include:

• Cardiovascular health: Recent studies show consumption of coconut oil was associated with an increase in good cholesterol, or HDLs. Still other studies show an increase in both HDLs and LDLs, so additional studies would benefit full understanding of how coconut oil contributes to overall cardiovascular health.
• Antimicrobial effects: The main saturated fat in coconut oil is lauric acid, a medium-chain triglyceride, which has antibacterial and antiviral properties.
• Weight loss and management: Some studies claim that coconut oil is helpful with weight loss because it boosts metabolism and increases satiety. The medium-chain triglycerides are easily digested and can be used as fuel.
• Diabetes: In a 2007 study, subjects who ingested coconut oil reported improved insulin resistance. While more research is needed, there appears to be a link between coconut oil and improved blood glucose.

Beyond the kitchen, coconut oil has been touted as a homemade deodorant, makeup remover, body and hair moisturizer, lip balm and toothpaste. Some people even use it to enhance athletic performance.